A profession as a jeweler (zerger) was viewed as the domain of men, for centuries, and women were not allowed into it.But modern times have brought about changes in many beliefs and views, including in jewelry making.
Today, female jewelers come as no surprise.And they work as well as men do.As a notable example, we have an interview with female jeweler, young teacher at the State Academy of Arts of Turkmenistan Ogulgerek Myradova.
− Ogulgerek, why did you choose the profession?
− When my sisters and I (there were six of us) were alone at home, Ogulgerek began her story, our grandmother’s jewelry box always attracted us like a magnet.
Actually, it was already in our mother’s possession, but we still called it the grandmother’s jewelry box.And if our mother caught us trying on the jewelry, she said: “When you grow up, I will divide it equally among you.
But now you should not touch it!” It would take years and years to grow up, we thought, but the treasures in the box were so enticing.And its metal lid opened over and over.
We took bracelets, necklaces, pendants, and brooches out, admiring them.Their breathtaking beauty sent a chill down our spines and made our mouths feel dry. “This is yours and that is mine”, we divided our mother’s treasures well in advance. “No, let’s do a swap − this is mine and that is yours”.
Years went by, and my oldest sister finished school. It was time for her to make a career choice.
− Your father had dreamed of studying at Theater and Arts Institute in Tashkent to continue his education, but he did not manage to do it, our mother recollected sadly. At that time, there was no Academy of Arts, and artists had to go to either Moscow, or Leningrad, or Tashkent to receive higher education.
My father, painter Mukhammet Yazyev passed away at the tragically young age of 36, when I was five.My older sisters remembered our father very well, but I had very few memories of him.
I saw pictures of him and knew what our mother had told us about him.Our mother had donated most of our father’s paintings to the Museum of Fine Arts, but we had some of his paintings at home, too.
We all wanted very much to be like him, and that was why my oldest sister Gulnara applied for admission to the Academy of Arts to study art history.
In 2002, when it was time for me to choose my occupation, I remembered my father and my grandmother’s jewelry box, and had no hesitation in applying to the Academy of Arts, the Department of Jewelry.
That year, the Department was going to accept 45 new students.By the way, the profession has gained in popularity and is now in high demand.This year, 140 students were admitted and there are female students among them.
− Is there any difference in teaching male and female students?
− During my studies at the Academy, all my fellow students (in all years of study) were very friendly and we learned much from each other.Back then, I noticed that girls have a more subtle perception of designs and compositions.
Their creations are almost ideal.When attending weddings, to which Turkmen women tend to wear their best clothes and beautiful jewelry, female students can more easily and fully grasp what is in popular demand.
Young men show superiority in different: they often create jewelry as a gift for their sweethearts, making every effort to leave an indelible impression on them.They try to express their unspoken love and feelings through it.
A piece of jewelry that sends a message of passionate love is truly wonderful.
− Turkmen jewelry never fails to impress our women. What do women from other countries think of it?
− I will tell you about what once happened to me in China when I was taking part in a book exhibition together with other three jewelers.A spouse of the Ambassador of Kazakhstan spent a long time at our display stand, looking at my necklace, “Dancing Peacocks”, in admiration.
She liked the filigree silver necklace partly gilded and encrusted with malachite so much that she asked if she could buy it.I answered in negative.During the exhibition’s closing ceremony, the Ambassador of Turkmenistan to China together with the Ambassador of Kazakhstan came up to our stand and requested that I sell the piece of jewelry as a token of friendly relations between our countries.
I was not able to resist such a peaceful policy.
“My wife has truly fallen in love with your jewelry, the Ambassador said admiring his purchase. She will have her birthday soon, and the necklace will be the best present I have given to her in years.”
His words made me feel proud on behalf of all jewelers of Turkmenistan.
I had one more memorable experience in Beijing that left a lasting impression on me. Having learned that the Turkmen delegation was taking part in the exhibition, a group of the Salyr Turkmen (who have been living in China for centuries) came to see their fellow countrymen.
Strangely enough, they had never been to their native country, but had maintained our customs: they speak in Turkmen, wear the dassar (a type of traditional headdress, popular in Serakhs), cook national dishes, and perform the same rituals.
− What could you tell us about your students as a teacher?
− All my students are talented.Jewelry-making requires meticulous craftsmanship.Jewelers put their heart and soul creating jewelry.This work is not for those who are lazy, but for those who have burning enthusiasm, a vivid imagination and a passionate desire to make inimitable pieces of jewelry.
I teach them everything I know myself, and then they start out on their careers.I maintain trust-based and cordial relations with many of my former students.
For example, Ovadan Taganova works at the Turkmenaltyn jewelry factory in Turkmenabat, Arzygul Gotdaeva teaches at Art School in Ashgabat’s Abadan Etrap, Govkher Seitjanova teaches at Art School in Turkmenbashi.
When I tell them that a jewelry exhibition is going to take place, they are always glad to take part in it.
− I would like to wish you a Happy New Year and more success ahead in creating beautiful pieces of jewelry that make our fellow countrywomen even more attractive.
− Thank you very much for your kind words and keen interest in our labor-intensive, but wonderful art of jewelry making that holds a fascination for Turkmen women, including girls.